The El Primero/Datron HS 360īy this point, we all know about the Zenith El Primero being the first (yes) automatic chronograph, introduced in 1969. Continuing the tradition of movements spelled slightly differently than the models, this “Celestograf” with calendar manual-wind movement operated at 18,000 vph. 473 movement didn’t have a very long production life, being introduced in 1947 and ending production in 1954. The bezel is also quite thin here, and the case is tiered along the sides. The more decorative applied Arabic hour numerals are joined by the red-tipped lollipop date-indicator hand. Where the case of the Calendograph you saw before is actually done in gold, as well as steel, this Celestograph is in a solid 14k gold case. The Celestograph watch can be seen as the upgraded sibling of the slightly older Calendograph, due to the fact that, in addition to the day, date, and month, we see the arrival of a moon-phase indicator. Maybe it’s just me, and these are not for everyone, but I think these are some of the best lugs done by anyone. The long lugs are distinctly architectural but with curves and rounded edges. First and foremost, I’d like to say: those lugs. The second calendar watch is the more elaborate Movado Gentleman’s “Celestograph” C 476142 44929 that was made in 1950. With 17 jewels and operating at 18,000 vph, this movement was produced between 19. 475 Calendograf movement (not to be confused with the watch’s name “Calendograph”) but with a central seconds hand, as opposed to a sub-dial. 475 SC movement used here is the base Cal. The font used on the outer date ring sparks much typographical joy for me. But, as with almost everything, it’s all about the little things. The proportions are right, the applied indices are a work of art, the flat bezel ties the whole thing together, and I love the uniformly gold color scheme extending even to the top of the lollipop date indicator hand. I try not to use the word “elegant” so much, but it’s difficult to describe it in any other way. The Movado Calendograph D474007 14952 is the quintessential classic calendar watch from the many produced by the brand. These are some of Movado’s most well-known and desirable vintage watches, but I was fortunate to get my hands on two of these models. Movado produced quite a few calendar watches in the mid-20th century, first beginning to appear when their “Calendograph” movement was developed in 1945. A98611 19048 just about topped the list for me. There are several other historic Movado chronographs I was also taken with, and maybe I’ll also share those in the future, but the Ref. Steel case with silvered dial, the hands are blued with the hour and minute hands filled with lume. While on the topic of the 60-minute sub-dial, I can’t be the only person who is smitten with that squiggly hand. A98611 19048 I’m talking about here has seconds and 60-minute sub-dials only. Later would come the Calibre 95 M that added a 12-hour counter, but the Ref. The Calibre 90 M featured a 60-minute chronograph counter, 17-jewels, and was stamped with “Movado Factories” which you can see if you were to open a case back of one of these watches (alas, I didn’t get quite so intimate with the watches). The manual Calibre 90 M chronograph movement was produced by Movado from 1938 through around 1965. Just a fun fact I wanted to share, though the watch you see above wouldn’t come into being until 1940. Something I was admittedly ignorant about was how Movado was behind one of the first split-seconds wristwatch chronographs in 1921 under the “Ralco” name. This kind of typography is my weakness, and this might top most contemporary world time watches out there. The contrast of the applied gold indices and hour markers with the orange/black 24-hour ring is what compelling design that doesn’t need to be obvious is all about for me. The automatic movement measures just about 28mm-wide and 4.65mm-thin, has 17 jewels, and operates at 18,000 vph. 129 from about 1950 through 1965, and this watch is one of the first to use it. 125 movement and adds the world time module to it. The movement used on the Polygraph is the Cal. Turning the bezel allows you to match the time zone of the desired city with the red crescent 24-hour hand. In a 37mm-wide case, the Polygraph world time watch has a rotating bezel that is thin but easy to grip due to the deep milling done on it. The Movado “Polygraph” World Time was done in gold or steel (which is the Ref. While these are in no particular order, I did have to start with the watch I was most tempted to abscond with.
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